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Grooming Guide

Perhaps the rising rate of skin cancer in men is having one positive effect:  More men are paying attention to what's happening on their face.  They're catching on to the fact that the terms "weathered" and "sunbeaten" to describe a man's face are just synonyms for "old" and "leathery."   Luckily, there are things men can do to help skin maintain a healthy, youthful appearance.

Men's skin care often begins and ends with shaving.  And that's where their first mistakes often occur.  The biggest error that men make while shaving, says Eric Malka of The Art of Shaving, a men's grooming company, are "not using good preparation methods, and then shaving too fast and hard."  The results?  "Razor bumps and ingrown hairs."

The key, says Malka, is to take your time.  The Art of Shaving recommends a four-step process:  prepare, lather up, shave, and moisturize.

The preparations begin with showering, to let the steam soften the hairs.  Then, apply a pre-shave oil.  "The oil coats the face and protects it," Malka explains.

The next step is to apply hot shaving cream with a shaving brush.  "The motion of the brush lifts the hairs away from the face, making it easier for the razor to grab," said Malka.

When it is time to shave, "take your time," Malka cautions again.  "Use short strokes, and never shave against the grain."

After shaving, apply sunscreen.  "I recommend that my patients apply a sunscreen after shaving, before moisturizing," says Dr. Ariel Ostad, Clinical Assistant Professor of Dermatology at New York University Medical Center.  The sunscreen should be an SPF 15 or higher, and should be applied to the face as well as the neck, including the back of the neck, and ears.   After the sunscreen, apply a moisturizer, or moisturizing aftershave balm, with an SPF of 15 or higher.  Because most people don't apply enough sunscreen, this double layer will help ensure that you're better protected.

"Too many men don't moisturize," notes Dr. Ostad.  "As we age, our skin loses its ability to retain moisture.  When men don't moisturize, they wind up with dry skin, rashes, eczema and wrinkles."  It's important to find a moisturizer that fits your skin type.  Dr. Ostad recommends an oil-free moisturizer for oily skin, and a cream moisturizer for dry skin.  Men should especially avoid stinging aftershaves that contain alcohol, says Mr. Malka, which can irritate and dry out your skin.

The skin around the eyes is often the first place where signs of aging show, but putting sunscreen and moisturizer around the eye area can irritate the eye itself.  Instead, protect your eyes with a pair of UV-blocking sunglasses.

If  you are going to be exposed to the sun for extended periods, consider a heavier, beach-type sunscreen, and follow our guidelines for sun safety.

This may seem awfully involved for some men, especially for those who aren't used to taking time with their skin.  But your face is how the world sees you.  By giving it some care, and shielding it from the sun, it will reward you by looking healthier - and being healthier - for years to come.

 
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